Every since I was a kid, spending catatonic hours at my local hobby store, gazing dreamingly at endless rows of tin figures and fantastic adventure games, I’ve always wanted to make something like that of my own. Real life models are so visceral, and there is something to looking at them that cannot be properly emulated digitally. I don’t think either is superior, mind you, but in their strengths and flaws they are each other’s opposites.
Anyway, now I’ve taken a bold new step in creating my own tabletop game, and the first in what I hope will be at least a humble line of miniatures have already been conceived and modeled by yours truly. I’m at present not sure they work as intended, though,since it will be a while before I get my own prints. They should be usable anyway, though, and pretty if nothing else.
Miniatures available here.
Here are some rules to get you started:
The game can be played on everything from a chess board to a dinner table. Decide on what constitutes one step and how many steps a piece can move on its turn. You need to be able to tell your pieces from your opponent, so either order them in different colors, or be creative with your own. Make sure the challenge level is about equal for both participants; more skilled players can play with fewer pieces to balance the match. Decide on how many pieces to use, and any other special rules, like the exclusion of certain Types or even Classes, though by default they are all allowed. Slide one Class Marker into each of your pieces, making sure your opponent does not see them. They should be positioned to that a tilt of the model reveals the indicator. Attach one Type Token to the top of each base. These choices will be vital in future games, as they must be in accordance with your overall strategy and play-style.
On your turn you may move one of your pieces as far as mandated. Fast Type pieces may move up to double this, however. If after you have moved (or remained) one of your opponent’s pieces is within a certain range, usually adjoining, you may attack it. You may forgo your movement, but not move after your attack. When you attack, you must indicate attacker and target, so as to avoid cheating and confusion, and clearly declare attack type of either “A,” “B,” “C” or “X.” This choice is then compared to the Class visible on the target’s underside by your opponent, who will relay the result. A defeats B, B defeats C and C defeats A. It’s a simple formula, recognizable to anyone who’s played “rock, paper, scissors.” The defeated piece is removed from play. However, the fourth option, “X,” is quite different. “X” defeats all the others, but a Class X piece can not attack. Except for when special Types are involved, a draw means bilateral elimination, except with Class X pieces. As such, X defeats X. You need to use deduction to whittle away your opponents pieces. A keen memory is your greatest weapon.
(D)Defend: When defending, – that is, when attacked by your opponent – this piece is not destroyed in case of a draw. This effect is nullified if the Class is X.
(S)Strong: When attacking, this piece is not destroyed in case of a draw.
(U)Unveil: When attacked or defending, this piece will reveal the Class of the opponent.
(F)Fast: Movement doubled.
(V)Vengeance: When destroyed, this piece may launch a last attack, off-turn. Unless, of course, Class is X.
(R)Ranged: This piece may attack from one step further away. When defeated or in a draw during its attack, a regular piece will not destroy it. Other pieces with increased range, however, will.
(O)Offensive: This piece does not need to declare its attack class; it ALWAYS wins when attacking. As a tradeoff, it always LOSES when defending, though.
(A)Archer: This piece can attack from anywhere, but unlike Ranged pieces, it will still risk being destroyed like normal.
Sever the Head: One piece on each side acts as the “King” (or “Queen,” whichever you prefer). Victory is attained by capturing the opponent’s King.
Last King Standing: Same as above, but with more than two sides.
Dogs of War: Each piece is valued at one point. If a King is present in the game, it’s valued at two. The winner is the first one to score a predetermined number of points. Could be played with more than two players.
Obliteration: All opposing pieces must be destroyed before victory can be claimed. Can be played with two or more players.
Tell me if I forgot something. I’ll add to this as needed.